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Everybody was surfed out from the heavy waves the day before and as all of us oversurfed the morning glass, in the afternoon I sat at the taverna chating with friends. It was afternoon and the only guy in was this dude fooling around with his longboard. Trying reverse take-offs, noserides and walking, and we all got transfixed by the sight of a young guy having so much fun on the waves.
I grabbed my housing and I swam in to meet him….
So, this is Othonas, on this particular shot making a step back while he’s sliding down a wave.
